This post is based primarily on Don's notes, occasionally supplemented with MT's notes from our cruise in November 2022. When information from other sources is added—for further explanation to readers or to satisfy our own curiosity—that is set off in a text box (as this one).
Most of the photos that accompany this post are from Don’s camera (with a caption indicating the time it was taken); those from MT’s iPhone are indicated by “MT” placed at the beginning of the photo caption. Photos from any other source (such as the public domain Wikimedia Commons), occasionally used for clarification, indicate that source in the caption.
Most of the photos that accompany this post are from Don’s camera (with a caption indicating the time it was taken); those from MT’s iPhone are indicated by “MT” placed at the beginning of the photo caption. Photos from any other source (such as the public domain Wikimedia Commons), occasionally used for clarification, indicate that source in the caption.
The Viking Daily newsletter showed today's weather forecast as "Thunderstorms 79° F" and "Sunrise: 5:30 AM."
Don woke at 5:20 am (MT was already up) and got up at 6:30. Today was Thanksgiving Day.
MT Thursday, November 24, 2022, 5:38 AM - Screenshot showing MT and Don kayaking on St. Kitts, British West Indies on another Viking cruise a year ago today. (Our shore excursion scheduled for today also involved kayaking.)
Uvita
Island (Spanish:
Isla Uvita, meaning “little grape island”) is a small island in the Caribbean offshore
of the port of Puerto Limón, Costa Rica. Christopher Columbus anchored his
ships on the island for repairs during his final voyage to America in 1502 and gave
the island the name La Huerta (Spanish for “the orchard”). The Cariari Indians called
it Quiribri. In 1986, Cost Rica’s National Commission of Nomenclature approved
the restoration of the name Isla Quiribri. Although that is now the official
name, it is seldom used. The names Isla Uvita or La Uvita are now most common.
The island is currently uninhabited.
MT Uvita Island (By Roger -
https://www.flickr.com/photos/24736216@N07/3179046122/, CC BY-SA 2.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=39910124).
6:12 AM - Puerto Limón: view from our balcony of a dock (not ours) and the town (telephoto 93 mm).
6:28 AM - Puerto Limón: view from our balcony of a dock (not ours) and the town, from where we docked.
At 7:00, we got room service breakfast and ate on our balcony.
The Viking Star had been scheduled to arrive in Puerto Limón, Costa Rica at 8:00 am.
The
Viking Daily newsletter described Puerto Limón, Costa Rica as follows:
“Situated on Costa Rica’s lush Caribbean coast, Puerto Limón is the gateway to one of the world’s most biodiverse and magnificent countries. In 1502, during his fourth voyage, Christopher Columbus landed on the nearby island of Isla Uvita. Puerto Limón boasts a diversity of its own. Italian, Jamaican and Chinese residents descended from immigrants who came here to lay the railroad to San José in the late 19th century. Coffee exports from the highlands, and the later arrival of the United Fruit Company, helped to bolster the local economy. Today, a rich Afro-Caribbean heritage is prevalent, with many speaking a creole form of English, Limonese Creole.
“Situated on Costa Rica’s lush Caribbean coast, Puerto Limón is the gateway to one of the world’s most biodiverse and magnificent countries. In 1502, during his fourth voyage, Christopher Columbus landed on the nearby island of Isla Uvita. Puerto Limón boasts a diversity of its own. Italian, Jamaican and Chinese residents descended from immigrants who came here to lay the railroad to San José in the late 19th century. Coffee exports from the highlands, and the later arrival of the United Fruit Company, helped to bolster the local economy. Today, a rich Afro-Caribbean heritage is prevalent, with many speaking a creole form of English, Limonese Creole.
Limón, commonly known
as Puerto Limón (Port Lemon in English), is a district, the capital city, and main hub of Limón province, as well as the Limón canton of Costa Rica. It
is the seventh largest city in Costa Rica, with a population of over 94,000. It
is home to the Afro-Caribbean community. Part of the community traces its
roots to Italian, Jamaican, and Chinese laborers who worked on a
late-nineteenth-century railroad project that connected San José to Puerto Limón.
Until 1948, the Costa Rican government did not recognize Afro-Caribbean people
as citizens and restricted their movement outside the Limón province. This
community became firmly established in the region, which influenced decisions
not to move even after it was legally permitted. Nowadays, however, there is a
significant outflow of Limón natives who move to the country’s Central Valley
in search of better employment and education. The Afro-Caribbean community speaks
Spanish and Limonese Creole, a creole of English.
Puerto
Limón has three port terminals.
Costa Rica (Spanish for “rich coast”), officially the Republic of Costa Rica, is a country in Central America. It borders on Nicaragua to the north, the Caribbean Sea to the northeast, Panama to the southeast, and the Pacific Ocean to the southwest. It also has a maritime border with Ecuador to the south. The country has a population of around five million. An estimated 333,980 live in the capital and largest city, San José.
Costa
Rica was inhabited by indigenous peoples before coming under Spanish rule in
the 16th century. The Spanish name “la costa rica” was in some accounts first
applied by Christopher Columbus, who sailed to the eastern shores of Costa Rica
in 1502 and reported vast quantities of gold jewelry worn by natives. However,
the lack of resources such as gold and silver soon made Costa Rica into a poor,
isolated, and sparsely inhabited region. In 1719, a Spanish governor described it
as “the poorest and most miserable Spanish colony in all America.” It remained
a peripheral colony of the Spanish Empire until independence as part of the
First Mexican Empire in 1821, followed by membership in the Federal Republic of
Central America in 1823, from which it formally declared independence in 1847.
Following the brief Costa Rican Civil War in 1948, it permanently abolished its
army in 1949, becoming one of only a few sovereign nations without a standing army.
Costa Rica (Spanish for “rich coast”), officially the Republic of Costa Rica, is a country in Central America. It borders on Nicaragua to the north, the Caribbean Sea to the northeast, Panama to the southeast, and the Pacific Ocean to the southwest. It also has a maritime border with Ecuador to the south. The country has a population of around five million. An estimated 333,980 live in the capital and largest city, San José.
At 8:40, we went to the pier to meet our guide Enrique and driver Jorge for the (optional) shore excursion "River Kayaking & Nature Walk" with the Viking Star 10" tour group on bus 10.
The
My Viking Journey web site describes the shore excursion River Kayaking
& Nature Walk (optional $109 Per Person) as follows:
Day 9 – Puerto Limón, Costa Rica
Thursday, November 24
9:45 AM
6.5 Hours
Punta Uva, Scenic Lookout and Puerto Viejo
Explore Costa Rica’s natural beauty by kayak and on foot, and visit the vibrant fishing village of Puerto Viejo. Transfer to Punta Uva, a small fishing village along the southern Caribbean coast known for its striking white-sand and palm tree-studded beaches. Receive your kayak and paddle, as well as a short safety briefing, then follow your guide from the beach upriver through the rainforest. Keep watch for wildlife as you gain insight into this fascinating ecosystem. After, enjoy a snack before hiking up to a lookout with sweeping views over the verdant landscape and the sea. Then, travel to the charming fishing village of Puerto Viejo, where you can immerse yourself in its distinctly laidback, Caribbean vibe. Enjoy free time to browse the local shops or stroll along the beach, before transferring back to your ship. Please note: maximum weight to participate is 235 lbs per person.
Demanding - Physically challenging activities, including extensive walks, hiking, riding, water sports, and high altitude activities. Activities by foot may contain difficult, unpaved surfaces and/or multiple stairs and steep inclines.
Day 9 – Puerto Limón, Costa Rica
Thursday, November 24
9:45 AM
6.5 Hours
Punta Uva, Scenic Lookout and Puerto Viejo
Explore Costa Rica’s natural beauty by kayak and on foot, and visit the vibrant fishing village of Puerto Viejo. Transfer to Punta Uva, a small fishing village along the southern Caribbean coast known for its striking white-sand and palm tree-studded beaches. Receive your kayak and paddle, as well as a short safety briefing, then follow your guide from the beach upriver through the rainforest. Keep watch for wildlife as you gain insight into this fascinating ecosystem. After, enjoy a snack before hiking up to a lookout with sweeping views over the verdant landscape and the sea. Then, travel to the charming fishing village of Puerto Viejo, where you can immerse yourself in its distinctly laidback, Caribbean vibe. Enjoy free time to browse the local shops or stroll along the beach, before transferring back to your ship. Please note: maximum weight to participate is 235 lbs per person.
Demanding - Physically challenging activities, including extensive walks, hiking, riding, water sports, and high altitude activities. Activities by foot may contain difficult, unpaved surfaces and/or multiple stairs and steep inclines.
At 8:50, we started the bus trip for the kayaking part of our excursion.
9:00 AM - near Puerto Limón: view through bus windshield of road that took us through forest, jungle, and banana plantations.
9:09 AM - near Puerto Limón: first waiver form (in German, for "Kajakahrt und Spaziergang in der Natur") they gave us on the bus (we later got the English version).
9:15 AM - near Puerto Limón: banana trees through bus windshield with sign for "Viking Star 10" bus on inside of windshield (telephoto 130 mm).
9:27 AM - near Puerto Limón: view through bus window when bus stopped to show us howler monkeys in a tree; at first, Don thought is was the taller tree with red flowers at the top.
Howler
monkeys
(genus Alouatta) are the most widespread primate genus in the Neotropics and are
among the largest of the platyrrhines (New World monkeys). They are native to
South and Central American forests. They are famous for their loud howls, which
can be heard up to three miles away through dense rain forest. Fifteen species
are recognized.
The
species Mantled howler (Alouatta palliata) is found in Costa Rica, along
with Colombia, Ecuador, Guatemala, Honduras, Mexico, Nicaragua, Panama, and
Peru. It takes its “mantled” name from the long guard hairs on its side. It gets
the name “howler” from the calls made by males, particularly at dawn and dusk
but also in response to disturbances. These loud roars are likely an energy
saving device, allowing the monkeys to locate each other without moving around
or risking physical confrontations.
Mantled howler monkey calling, in Tortuguero, Costa Rica (By Arturo de Frias
Marques - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=34821519).
9:29 AM - near Puerto Limón: view through bus window of palm tree with smaller (banana) tree in lower left foreground (telephoto 130 mm).
MT 9:30 AM - near Puerto Limón: view through bus window of tree behind palm tree with howler monkey, at fork in branch at top center (telephoto 133 mm).
MT 9:30 AM - near Puerto Limón: view through bus window of tree behind palm tree with howler monkey, with tail clearly visible, at fork in branch on tree at top center (telephoto 110 mm and cropped).
MT 9:31 AM - near Puerto Limón: view through bus window of tree behind palm tree with howler monkey, at fork in branch at right center with tail hanging down, and possibly another (or a three-toed sloth?) nestled in fork at bottom center (telephoto 133 mm).
9:29 AM - near Puerto Limón: view through bus window of palm tree with three smaller (banana) trees in foreground.
9:30 AM - near Puerto Limón: view through bus window of palm tree with possible howler monkey (dark in center) (telephoto 130 mm).
9:31 AM - near Puerto Limón: view through bus window of banana tree, overgrown (telephoto 130 mm).
9:34 AM - near Puerto Limón: view through bus window of banana trees in plantation (telephoto 130 mm).
MT 9:36 AM - near Puerto Limón: view through bus window of banana trees in plantation, with forest behind it (telephoto 104 mm).
The bus driver got out and brought us a banana flower for us to look at.
Banana
flowers
(aka banana blossoms) are blossoms from a banana tree. Sometimes, they are also
called “banana hearts.” These reddish-purple, teardrop-shaped leaves can weigh up
to a pound. They are completely edible and can be found fresh at roadside stands
and farmers markets, wherever bananas are grown. They are commonly used in
salads and soups. If left on the tree, they would blossom into bananas. They
grow in groups of flowers, called hands.
The
above-ground parts of a banana plant grow to form a structure called a “corm.” Plants
normally grow tall and fairly sturdy with a treelike appearance, but what
appears to be a trunk is actually a “false stem” or pseudostem. When a banana
plant is mature, the corm stops producing new leaves and begins to form a
flower spike, also known as the “banana heart.” A stem develops that grows
inside the pseudostem, carrying the immature flower spike until it eventually
emerges at the top. The banana fruits develop from the banana heart, in a large
hanging cluster made up of tiers (called “hands”).
9:35 AM - near Puerto Limón: view through bus window of "Chiquita" truck at plant in banana plantation.
MT 9:39 AM - near Puerto Limón: view through bus window of "Chiquita" truck with "Controlled Atmosphere" at plant in banana plantation (telephoto 133 mm).
Then the bus stopped for us to see a three-toed sloth in a tree.
The
three-toed or three-fingered sloths are arboreal neotropical mammals.
They are the only members of the genus Bradypus and the family Bradypodidae.
There are four living species. The brown-throated three-toed sloth (Bradypus
variegatus) species is native to Central America and much of north and central
South America, from Honduras through Colombia [including Costa Rica],
Venezuela, Ecuador, eastern Peru, Bolivia, and Brazil.
Famously slow-moving (hence the name “sloth”), a sloth travels at an average speed of 0.24 km/h (0.15 mph). Three-toed sloths are about the size of a small dog or a large cat, with head and body having a combined length around 45 cm (18 in). Unlike two-toed sloths, they also have short tails of 6-7 cm (2-3 in), and they have three clawed toes on each limb. All sloths have three digits on their hind limbs; the difference is found in the number of digits on the forelimbs; thus, they are sometimes referred to as three-fingered sloths.
Brown-throated three-toed sloth in tree (By Stefan Laube (Tauchgurke) - Own
work (Stefan Laube)Originally uploaded at de.wikipedia.org: 2004-10-02 02:26 by
Tauchgurke (658235 Byte) (Dreizehenfaultier (Bradypus infuscatus), Gatunsee,
Republik Panama), Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=61433).
Famously slow-moving (hence the name “sloth”), a sloth travels at an average speed of 0.24 km/h (0.15 mph). Three-toed sloths are about the size of a small dog or a large cat, with head and body having a combined length around 45 cm (18 in). Unlike two-toed sloths, they also have short tails of 6-7 cm (2-3 in), and they have three clawed toes on each limb. All sloths have three digits on their hind limbs; the difference is found in the number of digits on the forelimbs; thus, they are sometimes referred to as three-fingered sloths.
Brown-throated three-toed sloth crossing a road in Costa Rica (By Ian D.
Keating - https://www.flickr.com/photos/ian-arlett/26121756518/, CC BY 2.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=83568725).
10:07 AM - near Puerto Limón: view across aisle and through bus window of beach with black sand (telephoto 130 mm).
Then our bus stopped at the beach with black sand, which is known as Playa Negra.
In
Costa Rica, there are both black sand and white sand beaches throughout the
country.
Playa Negra (meaning “Black Beach”), right off the highway north of the small town of Puerto Viejo, is a black sand beach on the Caribbean. Since this beach is considered “not as pretty” as others, such as the white sand beach of Punta Uva, there aren’t as many people here. Because it is so long (more than 10 km), you can walk for kilometers on it without seeing another person. It is about a 1.5 km walk on the beach to the town of Puerto Viejo.
The
sand on a beach is material that includes eroded pieces of rock. The dark sand
is derived from eroded volcanic material, like lava, basalt rocks, and other
materials crushed and eroded over time. Lighter colored rocks, as in areas with
coral, will lend to the beach having light sand. Black sand can be difficult to
walk on barefoot, since it absorbs more heat. White sand beaches in Costa Rica
have a softer, silkier feeling than their black sand counterparts and are great
for laying out, since the sand doesn’t absorb as much heat.
Playa Negra (meaning “Black Beach”), right off the highway north of the small town of Puerto Viejo, is a black sand beach on the Caribbean. Since this beach is considered “not as pretty” as others, such as the white sand beach of Punta Uva, there aren’t as many people here. Because it is so long (more than 10 km), you can walk for kilometers on it without seeing another person. It is about a 1.5 km walk on the beach to the town of Puerto Viejo.
Shortly after 10 am, the bus arrived at Punta Uva beach for kayaking (first), with no photos (to avoid getting camera and iPhone wet).
Playa
Punta Uva
(meaning Grape Point Beach) is a beach located near the village of Puerto Viejo
on the southern tip of the Caribbean coast of Costa Rica, in the province of
Limón, just north of the Panamanian border. This is a white sand beach surrounded
by lovely coconut palm, manzanilla, and Indian Almond trees (with many sloths
in the branches). While still off the beaten path, Punto Uva is one of Costa
Rica’s most beautiful beaches with its golden-white sand, aquamarine waters,
and lush green jungle. The name Punta Uva is due to the well-known sea grape tree
that grows along the beachside.
The
beach is near the village of Punta Uva, which is 8.5 km (5 mi) south of Puerto
Viejo. It is just over a 1-hour drive from Limón.
Then, around noon, we started the nature hike with our guide.
MT 12:02 PM - Punta Uva: MT and Don and sign for "Sloth Point - Punta Uva, CR' with three-toed sloths (mild telephoto 37 mm).
One
of the entrances to the beach is called “Sloth Point” because of the
large number of three-toed sloths found here.
12:07 PM - Punta Uva: closer view of ants carrying small green leaves down right side of tree trunk (apparently of Indian Almond tree; see text box below).
Indian Almond tree with fruits in various stages of ripeness (By Judgefloro -
Own work, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=46226003).
Fruits of Indian Almond tree (By YVSREDDY - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=19120007).
Trunk of Indian Almond tree (By Alejandro Bayer Tamayo from Armenia, Colombia -
Almendro (Terminalia catappa), CC BY-SA 2.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=74379798).
12:19 PM - Punta Uva: Indian almond tree with red fruits, at left, and three-toed sloth, just right of center (telephoto 130 mm).
Strangler
Fig
(ficus costaricana) trees, also known as the Giant Ficus, are found in Costa Rica.
They typically grow in dark forests where the competition for light is intense.
The seedlings, usually spread by birds, start in crevices of other trees, and
the roots grow down around the host tree and into the ground. The ficus
eventually kills the original support tree, creating a hollow center.
Strangler fig tree (By John Tann from Sydney, Australia at https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Strangler_fig_%285731429030%29.jpg).
12:34 PM - Punta Uva: grave of José Hansel, who asked to be buried there, by the nature hike path; the stone says "José Hansel - + [died] 18. Agosto 1964."
"Mister José Hansel
and his family were among the first settlers of Punta Uva, who dedicated
themselves to subsistence agriculture and the planting of coconuts. They named
the place Grape Point (Punta Uva) due to the abundance of the grape tree
(Coccoloba uvifera).
"Mister José Hansel
and several of his relatives were buried in the highest part of 'Red Cliff' or
Loma de Punta Uva [Small Hill of Punta Uva]. This gives the site a special historical significance.
Currently only the grave of Mister Hansel, who died in 1964, is visible.”
Part of the
inscription on the tombstone is at the top right." (telephoto 109 mm).
12:38 PM - Punta Uva: our guide showing us the Dragon Blood plant, which he said is used for decoration but lasts only about five days.
12:41 PM - Punta Uva: our guide showing us another kind of ant that gathers dead leaves and takes them down a hole to serve as fertilizer for their garden.
12:46 PM - Punta Uva: plant with flowers that looked like the Flying Bird we had seen at the Carambola Botanical Gardens in Honduras.
12:48 PM - Punta Uva: the last of our tour group coming down small, steep steps with a rope to hang onto (we had gone up this way, too).
12:54 PM - Punta Uva: that sloth in a tree; here you can see the three "fingers" with claws on his forelimb (telephoto 130 mm).
Although Viking's description of this excursion said we would "enjoy a snack before hiking up to a lookout," we got the snack after the nature hike.
1:09 PM - Punta Uva: kayaks at left and part of our group (including MT, near trash bag) gathered at the blue tent for our snack.
Our snack consisted of chips and salsa, pineapple, watermelon on thin cookies with a chocolate chunk and cream.
1:12 PM - Punta Uva: green Noni fruit supposed to be good for arthritis, heart, etc, when ripe and dried (telephoto 109 mm).
The
Morinda citrifolia is a fruit-bearing tree of the coffee family. Native
to Southeast Asia and Australasia, the species is now cultivated throughout the
tropics. Among some 100 names for the fruit across different regions are the
more common English names of great morinda, Indian mulberry, noni, beach
mulberry, vomit fruit, awl tree, and cheese fruit. The fresh fruit’s strong,
vomit-like odor and bitter taste has
made it a famine food (readily available to nourish people in times of hunger
and starvation) in most regions, but it remains a staple food among some
cultures, and it has been used in traditional medicine, although there is no
confirmed evidence of clinical efficacy for any intended use.
Shortly after that, we began our return bus trip to Puerto Limón, despite the Viking description of this excursion, which said we would "travel to the charming fishing village of Puerto Viejo," which was near to Punta Uva.
Around 2:30, we stopped at a roadside store for restrooms (free coffee if you bought souvenirs).
They also had beef patties or patties with fruit for $2; we split a beef patty.
MT 2:43 PM - store on the road to Puerto Limón: MT and banner (or beach towel?) with three-toed sloth.
As we neared Puerto Limón, we could see three cruise ships including the (smaller) Viking Star, anchored at a dock.
2:40 PM - near Puerto Limón: three cruise ships at dock; Viking Star is the smaller one (telephoto 93 mm).
At the cruise ship port, MT took a photo of a calypso band and gave them a $20 tip.
MT 3:11 PM - Puerto Limón: calypso band at cruise ship terminal; their CDs for sale said "SHANTY AND [H]IS CALYPSO."
A
Google search for “Shanty and Is Calypso” found a YouTube video titled “Shanty
y su calypso” with text about “Shanty and his Calypso band from
Cieneguita, Puerto Limón.” Reinaldo (or Reynaldo) Kenton (born 1938), also known
as “Shanty,” plays the guitar and the banjo, which he says is the
characteristic instrument of Calypso music. Cieneguita is a small suburb
located just southeast of the cruise ship port in Puerto Limón.
We got back on the Viking Star at 3:15. The writing on Don's room key card had got partly smeared/disappeared; so we got a new one at the Explorers Deck (Deck 1). MT smelled cigarette smoke in our stateroom and complained.
Then we both showered and filled out our menu requests for The Restaurant on November 25. The day before, we had started taking photos of our menus so we could tell what we were eating.
MT 3:35 PM - Viking Star: MT's menu with choices circled and her note to see the other side of the menu for the shrimp cocktail starter.
3:36 PM - Viking Star: Don's menu with same choices circled and showing "*More options on the back" at bottom right.
The Viking Daily newsletter said for all passengers to be back on board by 4 pm, as the Viking Star prepared to set sail for our next stop in Colón, Panama (194 nautical miles).
At 6 pm, we went to the World Café (Deck 7) for the "Thanksgiving Buffet," which the Viking Daily newsletter described as "Featuring all the Thanksgiving staples like turkey, stuffing, cranberry sauce, and pumpkin pie." We were able to select a traditional Thanksgiving meal, except that Don decided to forego the pumpkin pie because it usually includes ginger, to which he is allergic.
MT asked to share a table, and we joined couples from Seattle and Massachusetts. The latter told us that our optional shore excursion for the next day included dugout canoes. (No, not water again.)
After dinner, we watched the Port Talk for Colón, Panama on TV in our stateroom.
In our stateroom was a reminder: "Before retiring tonight, please adjust the time on your watches and clocks 1 HOUR AHEAD," which we did.
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